:root{--parchment:#F2EADB;--vellum:#E6D8BE;--ink:#2A1B14;--coffee:#3B2519;--red:#A3271B;--fresco:#2E5546;--ochre:#D29A35;--muted:#5E4B3E;}
/* Abyssinia Journeys. Palette variables are injected from site.config.json at build time (see :root below the build banner). */

/* ---------- base ---------- */
:root {
  --font-display: 'Marcellus', 'Times New Roman', serif;
  --font-text: 'Mulish', system-ui, sans-serif;
  --font-am: 'Noto Sans Ethiopic', sans-serif;
  --gut: clamp(16px, 3.2vw, 44px);
  --gap: clamp(12px, 1.6vw, 24px);
  --hdr-h: 80px;
  --fs-giant: 15vw;
  --fs-display: clamp(2.75rem, 8.4vw, 8.25rem);
  --fs-h1: clamp(2.25rem, 5.6vw, 5rem);
  --fs-h2: clamp(1.9rem, 4.2vw, 3.75rem);
  --fs-h3: clamp(1.4rem, 2.4vw, 2.125rem);
  --fs-h4: clamp(1.2rem, 1.6vw, 1.5rem);
  --fs-statement: clamp(1.45rem, 2.9vw, 2.5rem);
  --fs-lede: clamp(1.0625rem, 1.3vw, 1.25rem);
  --fs-body: 1rem;
  --fs-small: .875rem;
  --fs-label: .6875rem;
  --ease: cubic-bezier(.22, .8, .2, 1);
  --ease-io: cubic-bezier(.65, 0, .35, 1);
  --rule: color-mix(in srgb, var(--ink) 22%, transparent);
}
*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; text-size-adjust: 100%; }
body { margin: 0; background: var(--parchment); color: var(--ink); font: 400 var(--fs-body)/1.6 var(--font-text); -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased; text-rendering: optimizeLegibility; overflow-x: clip; }
img, svg, video { display: block; max-width: 100%; }
img { height: auto; }
a { color: inherit; }
p { margin: 0 0 1em; }
h1, h2, h3, h4 { margin: 0; font-weight: 400; }
button, input, select, textarea { font: inherit; color: inherit; }
fieldset { border: 0; padding: 0; margin: 0; min-width: 0; }
legend { padding: 0; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--red); outline-offset: 3px; }
.sec-dark :focus-visible, .hero :focus-visible, .menu :focus-visible, .ft-giant:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--ochre); }
[lang="am"], .am { font-family: var(--font-am); }
.sr { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.skip { position: fixed; left: var(--gut); top: -60px; z-index: 100; background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); padding: 10px 14px; }
.skip:focus { top: 10px; }
::selection { background: var(--red); color: #fff; }

/* ---------- type ---------- */
.display, .h1, .h2, .h3, .h4, .statement, .giant { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 400; }
.display { font-size: var(--fs-display); line-height: .92; letter-spacing: -.005em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.h1 { font-size: var(--fs-h1); line-height: 1; text-transform: uppercase; }
.h2 { font-size: var(--fs-h2); line-height: 1.02; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .005em; }
.h3 { font-size: var(--fs-h3); line-height: 1.1; }
.h4 { font-size: var(--fs-h4); line-height: 1.2; }
.statement { font-size: var(--fs-statement); line-height: 1.12; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .005em; }
.lede { font-size: var(--fs-lede); line-height: 1.5; max-width: 40em; }
.label { font: 600 var(--fs-label)/1.4 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; margin: 0 0 14px; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.label .hi, .hi { color: var(--red); }
.sec-dark .label .hi, .sec-dark .hi, .hero .hi { color: var(--ochre); }
.small { font-size: var(--fs-small); }
.muted { color: var(--muted); }
.sec-dark .muted { color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 78%, transparent); }
.prose { max-width: 38em; }
.prose h2 { font: 400 var(--fs-h3)/1.15 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; margin: 1.6em 0 .5em; }
.prose h3 { font: 400 var(--fs-h4)/1.2 var(--font-display); margin: 1.4em 0 .4em; }
.prose a, .link { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: 3px; }
.prose a:hover, .link:hover { color: var(--red); }
.prose ul, .prose ol { padding-left: 1.2em; margin: 0 0 1em; }
.prose li { margin-bottom: .4em; }
.dropcap::first-letter { font: 400 4.2em/.8 var(--font-display); float: left; margin: .06em .08em 0 0; color: var(--red); }
.orn { width: 12px; height: 12px; display: inline-block; vertical-align: -1px; color: var(--red); }
.sec-dark .orn, .hero .orn { color: var(--ochre); }

/* ---------- layout ---------- */
.wrap { padding-inline: var(--gut); }
.g12 { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: var(--gap); padding-inline: var(--gut); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .g12 { grid-template-columns: repeat(12, minmax(0, 1fr)); } }
.sec { padding-block: clamp(72px, 10vw, 160px); position: relative; }
.sec-tight { padding-block: clamp(48px, 6vw, 96px); }
.sec-dark { background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); }
.sec-coffee { background: var(--coffee); color: var(--parchment); }
.sec-vellum { background: var(--vellum); }
.sec-red { background: var(--red); color: var(--parchment); }
.sec-green { background: var(--fresco); color: var(--parchment); }
.rule { border: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); margin: 0; }
.sec-dark .rule, .sec-coffee .rule { border-color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 20%, transparent); }

.sec-head { align-items: start; margin-bottom: clamp(40px, 6vw, 88px); }
.sec-head .sh-label { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
.sec-head .sh-main { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .sec-head .sh-label { grid-column: 1 / span 3; padding-top: .7em; }
  .sec-head .sh-main { grid-column: 4 / -1; }
}
.sec-head .lede { margin-top: 20px; }

/* ---------- buttons & links ---------- */
.btn { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 10px; min-height: 42px; padding: 0 16px; border: 0; border-radius: 2px; font: 500 .875rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .01em; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer; transition: background-color .35s var(--ease), color .35s var(--ease), transform .35s var(--ease); white-space: nowrap; }
.btn .arr { width: 14px; height: 14px; transition: transform .45s var(--ease); }
.btn:hover .arr { transform: translateX(4px); }
.btn-red { background: var(--red); color: #fff; }
.btn-red:hover { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--red) 82%, var(--ink)); }
.btn-ink { background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); }
.btn-ink:hover { background: var(--coffee); }
.btn-line { background: transparent; color: inherit; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 1px currentColor; }
.btn-line:hover { background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); box-shadow: none; }
.sec-dark .btn-line:hover, .hero .btn-line:hover { background: var(--parchment); color: var(--ink); }
.btn-ochre { background: var(--ochre); color: var(--ink); }
.btn-ochre:hover { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--ochre) 80%, #fff); }
.more { display: inline-block; font: 600 var(--fs-label)/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; text-decoration: none; padding: 6px 0 8px; position: relative; }
.more::after { content: ''; position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 0; height: 1px; background: currentColor; transform-origin: right; transition: transform .6s var(--ease); }
.more:hover::after { animation: line-sweep .9s var(--ease); }
@keyframes line-sweep { 0% { transform: scaleX(1); transform-origin: right; } 45% { transform: scaleX(0); transform-origin: right; } 46% { transform-origin: left; } 100% { transform: scaleX(1); transform-origin: left; } }

/* pill buttons (header) */
.pill { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 8px; height: 40px; padding: 0 16px; border: 0; border-radius: 2px; background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--ink) 82%, transparent); color: var(--parchment); font: 500 .875rem/1 var(--font-text); text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer; backdrop-filter: blur(10px); -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(10px); transition: background-color .35s var(--ease); }
.pill:hover, .pill[aria-current] { background: var(--ink); }
.pill[aria-current] { box-shadow: inset 0 -2px 0 var(--ochre); }

/* ---------- header ---------- */
.hdr { position: fixed; inset: 0 0 auto 0; z-index: 40; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 8px; padding: 16px var(--gut); pointer-events: none; transition: transform .6s var(--ease); }
.hdr > * { pointer-events: auto; }
.hdr.is-hidden { transform: translateY(-110%); }
.hdr-l { display: none; gap: 4px; }
.hdr-mark { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; height: 40px; padding: 0 14px; background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); text-decoration: none; font: 400 1rem/1 var(--font-display); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; border-radius: 2px; white-space: nowrap; }
.hdr-r { display: flex; gap: 4px; align-items: center; }
.hdr-date { font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; white-space: nowrap; }
.hdr-mark .hm-en { display: none; }
@media (min-width: 640px) { .hdr-mark .hm-en { display: inline; } .hdr-mark .hm-short { display: none; } }
.hdr-date .hd-am, .hdr-date .hd-en { display: none; }
.hdr-date .hd-orn { color: var(--ochre); width: 11px; height: 11px; }
.hdr-enq { display: none; height: 40px; min-height: 40px; }
@media (min-width: 640px) {
  .hdr-date .hd-short { display: none; }
  .hdr-date .hd-en { display: inline; }
}
@media (min-width: 1100px) {
  .hdr { padding-top: 20px; }
  .hdr-l { display: flex; flex: 1; }
  .hdr-mark { position: absolute; left: 50%; transform: translateX(-50%); font-size: 1.0625rem; }
  .hdr-r { flex: 1; justify-content: flex-end; }
  .hdr-date .hd-am { display: inline; font-size: .8125rem; opacity: .85; }
  .hdr-enq { display: inline-flex; }
}

/* language selector (EN · FR · DE · ES), written in by scripts/i18n.mjs */
.lang-switch { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 2px; font: 500 .8125rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .06em; }
.lang-switch__link { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; min-width: 28px; min-height: 40px; padding: 0 2px; color: inherit; text-decoration: none; opacity: .72; }
.lang-switch__link:hover { opacity: 1; color: inherit; }
.lang-switch__link[aria-current] { opacity: 1; box-shadow: inset 0 -2px 0 var(--ochre); }
.lang-switch__sep { opacity: .45; }
.lang-switch__sr { position: absolute; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }
.lang-switch--header { display: none; height: 40px; padding: 0 10px; border-radius: 2px; background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--ink) 82%, transparent); color: var(--parchment); backdrop-filter: blur(10px); -webkit-backdrop-filter: blur(10px); }
.lang-switch--header :focus-visible { outline-color: var(--ochre); outline-offset: -2px; }
@media (min-width: 760px) { .lang-switch--header { display: flex; } }
.lang-switch--menu { grid-column: 1 / -1; font-size: 1rem; }
/* room for the selector beside the centred wordmark: shorter date pill at mid widths */
@media (min-width: 1100px) and (max-width: 1299px) { .hdr-date { display: none; } }
@media (min-width: 1300px) and (max-width: 1599px) { .hdr-date .hd-am { display: none !important; } }
.lang-switch--menu .lang-switch__link { min-width: 40px; min-height: 44px; }

/* ---------- menu ---------- */
.menu { position: fixed; inset: 0; z-index: 60; background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); overflow-y: auto; padding: 16px var(--gut) 40px; clip-path: inset(0 0 100% 0); transition: clip-path .8s var(--ease-io); }
.menu[hidden] { display: block; visibility: hidden; }
.menu.is-open { clip-path: inset(0 0 0 0); visibility: visible; }
.mn-top { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; }
.mn-mark { background: transparent; box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 1px color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 35%, transparent); }
.mn-close { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 12%, transparent); margin-left: auto; }
.mn-body { display: grid; gap: 40px; margin-top: 48px; }
.mn-big { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.mn-big a { display: flex; align-items: baseline; gap: 16px; text-decoration: none; font: 400 clamp(1.75rem, 4.2vw, 3.75rem)/1.1 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; padding: 4px 0; }
.mn-big a .am { font-size: .32em; color: var(--ochre); text-transform: none; opacity: 0; transform: translateX(-8px); transition: opacity .4s var(--ease), transform .4s var(--ease); }
.mn-big a:hover .am, .mn-big a:focus-visible .am { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
.mn-big a:hover > span:first-child { color: var(--ochre); }
.mn-side { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 32px; align-content: start; }
.mn-col ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.mn-col a { text-decoration: none; display: inline-block; padding: 5px 0; font-size: 1rem; }
.mn-col a:hover { color: var(--ochre); }
.mn-wheel { display: none; }
.menu li { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(16px); transition: opacity .6s var(--ease), transform .6s var(--ease); }
.menu.is-open li { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
.menu.is-open li:nth-child(2) { transition-delay: .05s; } .menu.is-open li:nth-child(3) { transition-delay: .1s; } .menu.is-open li:nth-child(4) { transition-delay: .15s; } .menu.is-open li:nth-child(5) { transition-delay: .2s; } .menu.is-open li:nth-child(6) { transition-delay: .25s; }
@media (min-width: 1000px) {
  .mn-body { grid-template-columns: 6fr 3fr 3fr; margin-top: 6vh; }
  .mn-side { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .mn-wheel { display: block; align-self: start; }
  .mn-wheel .wheel { width: min(100%, 420px); }
}
.mn-today { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 4px; margin-top: 16px; font-size: .875rem; }
.mn-today [lang] { color: var(--ochre); font-size: 1.125rem; }
html.menu-open { overflow: hidden; }

/* ---------- hero ---------- */
.hero { position: relative; min-height: 100svh; color: var(--parchment); background: var(--ink); overflow: hidden; display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: flex-end; isolation: isolate; }
.hero-media { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -2; }
.hero-media img, .hero-media .ph-missing { width: 100%; height: 115%; object-fit: cover; will-change: transform; }
.hero::before { content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(20,12,8,.55) 0%, rgba(20,12,8,.1) 30%, rgba(20,12,8,.12) 55%, rgba(20,12,8,.72) 100%); }
.gridlines { position: absolute; inset: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); padding-inline: var(--gut); pointer-events: none; z-index: 0; }
.gridlines i { border-left: 1px solid rgba(242, 234, 219, .16); }
.gridlines i:last-child { border-right: 1px solid rgba(242, 234, 219, .16); }
.gridlines i:nth-child(n+5) { display: none; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .gridlines { grid-template-columns: repeat(6, 1fr); } .gridlines i:nth-child(n+5) { display: block; } }
.page-head .gridlines i, .sec-light-grid .gridlines i { border-color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--ink) 8%, transparent); }

.hero-top { position: relative; z-index: 1; padding: calc(var(--hdr-h) + clamp(40px, 12vh, 140px)) var(--gut) 0; display: grid; gap: 24px; }
.hero-title { font: 400 var(--fs-statement)/1.08 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; max-width: 15em; text-shadow: 0 1px 24px rgba(0,0,0,.25); }
.hero-bottom { position: relative; z-index: 1; padding: 0 var(--gut); margin-top: auto; }
.hero-meta { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; font-size: .9375rem; padding-bottom: 6px; }
.hero-meta > div:last-child { display: none; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .hero-meta > div:last-child { display: block; } }
.hero-meta span + span { margin-left: 12px; }
.giant { font-size: var(--fs-giant); line-height: .8; text-transform: uppercase; white-space: nowrap; margin: 0 0 -.02em; letter-spacing: -.01em; width: max-content; }
.giant .ch { display: inline-block; transform: translateY(105%); transition: transform 1.3s var(--ease); }
.giant-clip { overflow: hidden; padding-top: .06em; }
.is-in .giant .ch, .giant.is-in .ch { transform: none; }

/* inner page hero (destination / journey) */
.hero-page { min-height: 92svh; }
.hero-page .hero-top { padding-top: calc(var(--hdr-h) + 24px); }
.hero-page .h-eyebrow { margin-top: auto; }
.hero-page .display { margin: 0 0 clamp(16px, 3vw, 32px); text-shadow: 0 2px 40px rgba(0,0,0,.25); }
.facts { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); gap: 0 var(--gap); border-top: 1px solid rgba(242,234,219,.45); padding: 14px 0 clamp(20px, 3vw, 32px); }
.facts div { padding: 6px 0; }
.facts dt { font: 600 .625rem/1.4 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; opacity: .85; margin-bottom: 4px; }
.facts dd { margin: 0; font-size: 1rem; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .facts { grid-template-columns: repeat(5, 1fr); } }

/* light page heading (enquire, journal, calendar) */
.page-head { position: relative; padding: calc(var(--hdr-h) + clamp(40px, 7vw, 96px)) 0 clamp(40px, 6vw, 80px); }
.page-head .g12 { position: relative; z-index: 1; align-items: end; }
.page-head .ph-title { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
.page-head .ph-side { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .page-head .ph-title { grid-column: 1 / span 7; }
  .page-head .ph-side { grid-column: 8 / -1; padding-bottom: 10px; }
}
.page-head .display { margin-top: 10px; }

/* ---------- status bar (advice) ---------- */
.status { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr; gap: 12px 16px; align-items: start; padding: 18px var(--gut); font-size: .9375rem; }
.status .st-tag { font: 700 .6875rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; padding: 7px 9px; border-radius: 2px; white-space: nowrap; }
.status p { margin: 0; max-width: 62em; }
.status-open { background: var(--fresco); color: var(--parchment); }
.status-open .st-tag { background: var(--parchment); color: var(--fresco); }
.status-no { background: var(--red); color: #fff; }
.status-no .st-tag { background: #fff; color: var(--red); }
.status a { text-decoration: underline; text-underline-offset: 3px; }

/* ---------- intro (label + statement) ---------- */
.intro .in-label { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
.intro .in-main { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .intro .in-label { grid-column: 1 / span 3; } .intro .in-main { grid-column: 4 / -1; } }
.intro .statement { margin-bottom: clamp(32px, 5vw, 64px); }
.stats { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(160px, 1fr)); gap: var(--gap); }
.stats dt { font: 400 clamp(1.5rem, 2.4vw, 2rem)/1.1 var(--font-display); margin-bottom: 8px; }
.stats dd { margin: 0; font-size: var(--fs-small); color: var(--muted); max-width: 22em; }
.intro .am-deco { display: block; font-size: clamp(1.25rem, 2vw, 1.75rem); color: var(--red); margin-bottom: 18px; }

/* ---------- wheel section ---------- */
.wheel { width: 100%; height: auto; overflow: visible; }
.wh-rot { transition: transform 1.6s var(--ease); }
.wh-sector { fill: transparent; stroke: color-mix(in srgb, currentColor 30%, transparent); stroke-width: 1; cursor: pointer; transition: fill .4s var(--ease); }
.wh-sector:hover { fill: color-mix(in srgb, currentColor 8%, transparent); }
.wh-sector.on { fill: color-mix(in srgb, var(--ochre) 22%, transparent); }
.wh-en { font: 500 13px/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; fill: currentColor; text-anchor: middle; dominant-baseline: middle; pointer-events: none; }
.wh-am { font: 400 14px/1 var(--font-am); fill: var(--ochre); text-anchor: middle; dominant-baseline: middle; pointer-events: none; }
.wh-pag { font-size: 11px; }
.wh-num { font: 400 13px/1 var(--font-am); fill: currentColor; opacity: .6; text-anchor: middle; dominant-baseline: middle; }
.wh-ticks { stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: 1; opacity: .5; }
.wh-rim { fill: none; stroke: currentColor; stroke-width: 1; opacity: .5; }
.wh-feast { color: var(--ochre); }
.wh-pointer { fill: var(--ochre); }
.wheel-light .wh-am, .wheel-light .wh-feast { fill: var(--red); color: var(--red); }
.wheel-light .wh-pointer { fill: var(--red); }

.wsec { overflow: hidden; }
.wsec .g12 { align-items: center; }
.wsec .ws-panel { grid-column: 1 / -1; order: 2; }
.wsec .ws-wheel { grid-column: 1 / -1; order: 1; position: relative; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .wsec .ws-panel { grid-column: 1 / span 4; order: 1; }
  .wsec .ws-wheel { grid-column: 6 / -1; order: 2; }
}
.ws-ghost { position: absolute; inset: 50% auto auto 50%; transform: translate(-50%, -50%); font: 400 clamp(6rem, 22vw, 20rem)/1 var(--font-am); color: transparent; -webkit-text-stroke: 1px color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 14%, transparent); pointer-events: none; white-space: nowrap; }
.ws-centre { position: absolute; inset: 0; display: grid; place-content: center; text-align: center; pointer-events: none; }
.ws-centre .wc-am { font: 400 clamp(1.5rem, 3.4vw, 2.75rem)/1.1 var(--font-am); color: var(--ochre); }
.ws-centre .wc-en { font-size: .875rem; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; margin-top: 6px; }
.ws-card { border: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 18%, transparent); padding: 20px; margin-top: 28px; }
.ws-card dl { margin: 0; }
.ws-card div { padding: 10px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 14%, transparent); }
.ws-card div:last-child { border: 0; }
.ws-card dt { font: 600 .625rem/1.4 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ochre); margin-bottom: 4px; }
.ws-card dd { margin: 0; font-size: 1.0625rem; }
.ws-card .wsm-name { font: 400 1.75rem/1.1 var(--font-display); }
.ws-card .wsm-am { color: var(--ochre); font-size: 1.125rem; margin-left: 8px; }
.ws-nav { display: flex; gap: 4px; margin-top: 16px; }
.ws-nav button { width: 42px; height: 42px; border: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 35%, transparent); background: transparent; color: var(--parchment); border-radius: 2px; cursor: pointer; }
.ws-nav button:hover { background: var(--parchment); color: var(--ink); }

/* ---------- destination accordion (vertical panels) ---------- */
.acc { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 4px; padding-inline: var(--gut); }
.acc-p { position: relative; overflow: hidden; color: var(--parchment); background: var(--ink); min-height: 76px; flex: 0 0 76px; transition: flex .9s var(--ease), min-height .9s var(--ease); text-decoration: none; display: block; }
.acc-p img, .acc-p .ph-missing { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transform: scale(1.08); transition: transform 1.4s var(--ease), filter .9s var(--ease); filter: saturate(.75) brightness(.62); }
.acc-p::after { content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(20,12,8,.15), rgba(20,12,8,.75)); }
.acc-p .acc-v { position: absolute; z-index: 1; left: 16px; top: 50%; transform: translateY(-50%); font: 400 1.25rem/1 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; white-space: nowrap; transition: opacity .4s var(--ease); }
.acc-p .acc-k { position: absolute; z-index: 1; right: 16px; top: 16px; font: 600 .625rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.acc-p .acc-body { position: absolute; z-index: 1; left: 16px; right: 16px; bottom: 16px; opacity: 0; transform: translateY(16px); transition: opacity .5s var(--ease), transform .7s var(--ease); max-width: 34em; }
.acc-p .acc-body h3 { font: 400 clamp(1.75rem, 3vw, 2.5rem)/1 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; margin-bottom: 10px; }
.acc-p .acc-body p { font-size: .9375rem; margin-bottom: 14px; }
.acc-p .acc-body .am { color: var(--ochre); font-size: 1rem; display: block; margin-bottom: 6px; }
.acc-p.on { flex: 0 0 440px; min-height: 440px; }
.acc-p.on img { transform: scale(1); filter: none; }
.acc-p.on .acc-v { opacity: 0; }
.acc-p.on .acc-body { opacity: 1; transform: none; transition-delay: .25s; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .acc { flex-direction: row; height: min(78vh, 640px); }
  .acc-p { flex: 1 1 0; min-height: 0; min-width: 0; }
  .acc-p.on { flex: 6 1 0; min-height: 0; }
  .acc-p .acc-v { left: 50%; top: auto; bottom: 24px; transform: translateX(-50%) rotate(180deg); writing-mode: vertical-rl; font-size: 1.375rem; }
  .acc-p .acc-k { left: 50%; right: auto; transform: translateX(-50%); writing-mode: vertical-rl; rotate: 180deg; }
  .acc-p.on .acc-k { left: 24px; transform: none; writing-mode: horizontal-tb; rotate: none; }
  .acc-p .acc-body { left: 24px; bottom: 24px; }
}

/* ---------- rows: title / image / text (with rule) ---------- */
.rows-h { padding-inline: var(--gut); margin-bottom: clamp(32px, 5vw, 64px); }
.row { padding-block: 20px clamp(48px, 7vw, 110px); border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); margin-inline: var(--gut); display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 18px; }
.row h3 { font: 400 var(--fs-h4)/1.15 var(--font-display); }
.row .row-k { font: 600 .625rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--red); margin-bottom: 10px; display: block; }
.row .row-img { overflow: hidden; }
.row .row-img img, .row .row-img .ph-missing { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 1.2s var(--ease); }
.row:hover .row-img img { transform: scale(1.04); }
.row .row-t { font-size: .9375rem; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .row { grid-template-columns: repeat(12, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: var(--gap); margin-inline: 0; padding-inline: var(--gut); border-top: 0; background: linear-gradient(var(--rule), var(--rule)) var(--gut) 0 / calc(100% - 2 * var(--gut)) 1px no-repeat; }
  .row .row-title { grid-column: 1 / span 4; }
  .row .row-img { grid-column: 5 / span 3; }
  .row .row-t { grid-column: 9 / -1; }
}
.sec-dark .row h3, .sec-dark .row .row-k { color: inherit; }
.sec-dark .row .row-k { color: var(--ochre); }

/* ---------- horizontal scroller ---------- */
.hs { position: relative; }
.hs-track { display: grid; grid-auto-flow: column; grid-auto-columns: min(82vw, 400px); gap: var(--gap); overflow-x: auto; scroll-snap-type: x mandatory; scroll-padding-inline: var(--gut); padding: 0 var(--gut) 8px; scrollbar-width: none; overscroll-behavior-x: contain; }
.hs-track::-webkit-scrollbar { display: none; }
.hs-track > * { scroll-snap-align: start; }
.hs-ctl { display: flex; gap: 4px; justify-content: flex-end; padding: 0 var(--gut); margin-top: 18px; }
.hs-ctl button { width: 42px; height: 42px; border: 1px solid var(--rule); background: transparent; border-radius: 2px; cursor: pointer; color: inherit; }
.sec-dark .hs-ctl button { border-color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 30%, transparent); }
.hs-ctl button:hover { background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); }
.sec-dark .hs-ctl button:hover { background: var(--parchment); color: var(--ink); }
.card { text-decoration: none; display: block; }
.card .c-img { overflow: hidden; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; background: var(--coffee); }
.card .c-img img, .card .c-img .ph-missing { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 1.2s var(--ease); }
.card:hover .c-img img { transform: scale(1.05); }
.card .c-meta { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; font: 600 .625rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; padding: 12px 0 10px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); color: var(--red); }
.sec-dark .card .c-meta { color: var(--ochre); border-color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 20%, transparent); }
.card h3 { font: 400 1.375rem/1.15 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; margin: 14px 0 8px; }
.card p { font-size: .875rem; margin-bottom: 8px; }
.card .c-foot { font: 600 .625rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; opacity: .8; }


/* ---------- split: text + map / image ---------- */
.split { align-items: start; }
.split .sp-a { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
.split .sp-b { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .split .sp-a { grid-column: 1 / span 5; position: sticky; top: calc(var(--hdr-h) + 16px); }
  .split .sp-b { grid-column: 7 / -1; }
  .split.rev .sp-a { grid-column: 8 / -1; order: 2; }
  .split.rev .sp-b { grid-column: 1 / span 6; order: 1; }
}

/* ---------- media figures ---------- */
.fig { margin: 0; overflow: hidden; }
.fig img, .fig .ph-missing { width: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.fig-full { margin: 0; }
.fig-full img, .fig-full .ph-missing { width: 100%; height: min(88vh, 900px); object-fit: cover; }
.duo { display: grid; gap: var(--gap); padding-inline: var(--gut); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .duo { grid-template-columns: 7fr 5fr; align-items: end; } .duo.flip { grid-template-columns: 5fr 7fr; align-items: start; } }
.duo img, .duo .ph-missing { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; }
.duo .tall img, .duo .tall .ph-missing { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; }
.duo h3 { font: 400 var(--fs-h4)/1.2 var(--font-display); margin: 16px 0 8px; }
.duo p { font-size: .9375rem; max-width: 36em; }

/* image reveal on scroll */
.rv-img { overflow: hidden; }
.js .rv-img img, .js .rv-img .ph-missing { clip-path: inset(100% 0 0 0); transform: scale(1.12); transition: clip-path 1.3s var(--ease-io), transform 1.8s var(--ease); }
.js .rv-img.is-in img, .js .rv-img.is-in .ph-missing { clip-path: inset(0 0 0 0); transform: none; }
.js .reveal { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(28px); transition: opacity 1s var(--ease), transform 1.2s var(--ease); }
.js .reveal.is-in { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
/* Page titles are on the first screen: the same rise, run by CSS so it starts at first paint, not when JS arrives (LCP). */
.js h1.reveal { animation: h1-rise 1s var(--ease) both; }
@keyframes h1-rise { from { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(28px); } to { opacity: 1; transform: none; } }
.js .reveal.d1 { transition-delay: .1s; } .js .reveal.d2 { transition-delay: .2s; } .js .reveal.d3 { transition-delay: .3s; }

.ph-missing { display: grid; place-items: center; background: repeating-linear-gradient(45deg, var(--vellum) 0 12px, color-mix(in srgb, var(--vellum) 80%, var(--ochre)) 12px 13px); color: var(--red); font-size: 2rem; min-height: 200px; }

/* ---------- FAQ ---------- */
.faq .faq-l { grid-column: 1 / -1; margin-bottom: 24px; }
.faq .faq-r { grid-column: 1 / -1; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .faq .faq-l { grid-column: 1 / span 5; } .faq .faq-r { grid-column: 7 / -1; } }
.faq-i { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.faq-i summary { list-style: none; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; gap: 16px; padding: 18px 0; cursor: pointer; font-size: 1.0625rem; }
.faq-i summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.faq-i summary i { width: 26px; height: 26px; flex: none; border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 2px; position: relative; transition: background .3s var(--ease); }
.faq-i summary i::before, .faq-i summary i::after { content: ''; position: absolute; left: 50%; top: 50%; width: 10px; height: 1px; background: currentColor; transform: translate(-50%, -50%); transition: transform .4s var(--ease); }
.faq-i summary i::after { transform: translate(-50%, -50%) rotate(90deg); }
.faq-i[open] summary i::after { transform: translate(-50%, -50%) rotate(0); }
.faq-i summary:hover i { background: var(--vellum); }
.faq-a { padding: 0 0 22px; max-width: 38em; color: var(--muted); }
.faq-a p:last-child { margin: 0; }
.faq-a a { text-decoration: underline; text-underline-offset: 3px; }

/* ---------- CTA band ---------- */
.cta { position: relative; min-height: 78vh; display: flex; align-items: flex-end; color: var(--parchment); overflow: hidden; isolation: isolate; background: var(--ink); }
.cta .cta-media { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -2; }
.cta .cta-media img, .cta .cta-media .ph-missing { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.cta::before { content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(20,12,8,.2), rgba(20,12,8,.72)); }
.cta-in { padding: clamp(40px, 6vw, 80px) var(--gut); width: 100%; display: grid; gap: 24px; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .cta-in { grid-template-columns: 7fr 5fr; align-items: end; } }
.cta h2 { font: 400 var(--fs-h1)/1 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; }
.cta p { max-width: 30em; }

/* next-page band (ends inner pages) */
.next { position: relative; min-height: 70vh; display: flex; align-items: flex-end; text-decoration: none; color: var(--parchment); overflow: hidden; isolation: isolate; background: var(--ink); }
.next .nx-media { position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -2; }
.next .nx-media img, .next .nx-media .ph-missing { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transform: scale(1.04); transition: transform 1.6s var(--ease); }
.next:hover .nx-media img { transform: scale(1); }
.next::before { content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: -1; background: rgba(20,12,8,.38); }
.next .nx-in { padding: 0 var(--gut) clamp(24px, 4vw, 48px); }
.next .display { margin-top: 8px; }

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
.ft { background: var(--vellum); padding-top: clamp(56px, 7vw, 96px); overflow: hidden; }
.ft-cols { row-gap: 36px; }
.ft-col { grid-column: span 2; }
.ft-col ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.ft-col a { text-decoration: none; font-size: .875rem; display: inline-block; padding: 3px 0; }
.ft-col a:hover { color: var(--red); }
.ft-news { grid-column: 1 / -1; background: var(--parchment); padding: 20px; }
.ft-news .h4 { text-transform: uppercase; margin-bottom: 10px; }
.ft-news p { font-size: .875rem; color: var(--muted); }
.ft-news-row { display: flex; gap: 6px; }
.ft-news input[type=email] { flex: 1; min-width: 0; height: 42px; padding: 0 12px; border: 1px solid var(--rule); background: #fff; border-radius: 2px; }
.ft-news-msg { margin: 10px 0 0; min-height: 1.4em; }
@media (min-width: 900px) {
  .ft-col { grid-column: span 2; }
  .ft-news { grid-column: 9 / -1; }
}
.ft-row { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 8px 24px; margin: clamp(40px, 6vw, 72px) var(--gut) 0; padding-top: 16px; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); font: 600 .625rem/1.6 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.ft-row a { text-decoration: none; }
.ft-row a:hover { color: var(--red); }
.ft-giant-wrap { padding-inline: var(--gut); margin-top: clamp(24px, 4vw, 48px); overflow: hidden; }
.ft-giant { font: 400 18vw/.8 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--coffee); white-space: nowrap; margin: 0; letter-spacing: -.01em; width: max-content; }
.ft-bot { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 8px 24px; padding: 20px var(--gut) 24px; font-size: .75rem; color: var(--muted); }
.ft-bot .am { color: var(--red); }

/* ---------- forms ---------- */
.field { display: grid; gap: 6px; margin-bottom: 18px; }
.field label, .field legend { font: 600 .6875rem/1.4 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.field input, .field select, .field textarea { width: 100%; min-height: 46px; padding: 10px 12px; border: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--ink) 35%, transparent); background: #fffdf8; border-radius: 2px; }
.field textarea { min-height: 120px; resize: vertical; }
.field input:focus, .field select:focus, .field textarea:focus { outline: 2px solid var(--red); outline-offset: 0; border-color: transparent; }
.field .hint { font-size: .8125rem; color: var(--muted); }
.field-row { display: grid; gap: 0 16px; }
@media (min-width: 640px) { .field-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }
.err { color: var(--red); font-size: .875rem; font-weight: 600; }

/* ---------- tables ---------- */
.tbl { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: .9375rem; }
.tbl th, .tbl td { text-align: left; padding: 14px 12px 14px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); vertical-align: top; }
.tbl th { font: 600 .625rem/1.4 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.tbl-wrap { overflow-x: auto; }

/* tag chips */
.tag { display: inline-block; font: 700 .625rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; padding: 6px 8px; border-radius: 2px; background: var(--vellum); color: var(--ink); }
.tag-red { background: var(--red); color: #fff; }
.tag-green { background: var(--fresco); color: var(--parchment); }
.tag-ochre { background: var(--ochre); color: var(--ink); }

/* ---------- month strip (when to go) ---------- */
.mstrip { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(13, minmax(44px, 1fr)); gap: 2px; overflow-x: auto; padding-inline: var(--gut); }
.mstrip div { padding: 12px 6px; font-size: .75rem; min-height: 112px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; justify-content: space-between; }
.mstrip .ms-am { font-size: .875rem; }
.mstrip .ms-en { font: 600 .5625rem/1.2 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .1em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.mstrip .ms-g { font-size: .6875rem; color: inherit; opacity: .85; }
.ms-best { background: var(--fresco); color: var(--parchment); }
.ms-good { background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--fresco) 22%, var(--parchment)); }
.ms-wet { background: var(--vellum); color: var(--ink); }
.ms-legend { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px 20px; padding: 14px var(--gut) 0; font-size: .8125rem; }
.ms-legend i { display: inline-block; width: 12px; height: 12px; margin-right: 6px; vertical-align: -1px; }

/* ---------- map ---------- */
.map-wrap { position: relative; }
.map-svg { width: 100%; height: auto; }
.map-svg .z { stroke: var(--parchment); stroke-width: .6; transition: opacity .3s; }
.map-svg .z-open { fill: color-mix(in srgb, var(--fresco) 30%, var(--parchment)); }
.map-svg .z-part { fill: url(#hatch-part); }
.map-svg .z-essential { fill: url(#hatch-ess); }
.map-svg .z-no { fill: url(#hatch-no); }
.map-svg .reg { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.2; pointer-events: none; }
.map-svg .z:hover { opacity: .8; }
.map-svg .route { fill: none; stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 2.4; stroke-linecap: round; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.map-svg .route.fly { stroke-dasharray: 2 7; }
.map-svg .rt { opacity: .9; transition: opacity .4s; }
.map-svg.has-focus .rt { opacity: .12; }
.map-svg.has-focus .rt.on { opacity: 1; }
.map-svg .rt.on .route { stroke: var(--red); }
.map-svg .town circle { fill: var(--parchment); stroke: var(--ink); stroke-width: 1.6; }
.map-svg .town text { font: 600 11px/1 var(--font-text); fill: var(--ink); paint-order: stroke; stroke: var(--parchment); stroke-width: 3px; }
.map-svg .town-closed circle { fill: var(--red); stroke: #fff; }
.map-svg .town-closed text { fill: var(--red); }
.map-svg .rlab { font: 400 13px/1 var(--font-display); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; fill: var(--ink); opacity: .72; pointer-events: none; paint-order: stroke; stroke: var(--parchment); stroke-width: 3px; }
.map-svg .rlab-no { fill: #fff; stroke: var(--red); opacity: 1; }
.legend { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 10px; font-size: .875rem; }
.legend li { display: flex; gap: 10px; align-items: center; }
.legend svg { width: 28px; height: 18px; flex: none; border: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.routes-list { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.routes-list li { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.routes-list button { all: unset; box-sizing: border-box; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 4px 12px; width: 100%; padding: 16px 0; cursor: pointer; }
.routes-list button:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--red); }
.routes-list .rl-name { font: 400 1.25rem/1.2 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; }
.routes-list .rl-sub { grid-column: 1 / -1; font-size: .875rem; color: var(--muted); }
.routes-list button[aria-pressed=true] .rl-name { color: var(--red); }
.zone-tip { position: absolute; pointer-events: none; background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); padding: 10px 12px; font-size: .8125rem; max-width: 260px; border-radius: 2px; opacity: 0; transition: opacity .2s; z-index: 3; }
.zone-tip.on { opacity: 1; }

/* ---------- steps (coffee ceremony) ---------- */
.steps { counter-reset: s; list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.steps li { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 56px 1fr; gap: 16px; padding: 22px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.steps li:last-child { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.steps .st-n { font: 400 1.75rem/1 var(--font-am); color: var(--red); }
.steps h3 { font: 400 var(--fs-h4)/1.2 var(--font-display); margin-bottom: 6px; }
.steps h3 .am { color: var(--red); font-size: .8em; margin-left: 8px; }
.steps p { margin: 0; font-size: .9375rem; }
.sec-dark .steps li { border-color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 18%, transparent); }
.sec-dark .steps .st-n, .sec-dark .steps h3 .am { color: var(--ochre); }

/* day-by-day */
.days { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.days li { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 6px; padding: 22px 0; border-top: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 18%, transparent); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .days li { grid-template-columns: 140px 1fr 160px; gap: var(--gap); } }
.days .d-n { font: 600 .6875rem/1.4 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ochre); }
.days h3 { font: 400 1.375rem/1.2 var(--font-display); margin-bottom: 6px; }
.days p { margin: 0; font-size: .9375rem; color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 85%, transparent); }
.days .d-alt { font-size: .8125rem; color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 78%, transparent); }
.profile { width: 100%; height: auto; margin-top: 24px; }
.profile .pf-area { fill: color-mix(in srgb, var(--ochre) 18%, transparent); }
.profile .pf-line { fill: none; stroke: var(--ochre); stroke-width: 2; }
.profile text { font: 600 10px/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .1em; fill: var(--parchment); }
.profile .pf-grid { stroke: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 14%, transparent); }
.profile circle { fill: var(--ochre); }

/* ---------- calendar tool ---------- */
.cal { display: grid; gap: var(--gap); padding-inline: var(--gut); }
@media (min-width: 1000px) { .cal { grid-template-columns: 5fr 7fr; } }
.cal-box { background: var(--vellum); padding: clamp(20px, 3vw, 36px); }
.cal-out { background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); padding: clamp(20px, 3vw, 36px); min-height: 360px; }
.cal-out .co-big { font: 400 clamp(1.75rem, 4vw, 3.25rem)/1.05 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; }
.cal-out .co-am { font: 400 clamp(1.25rem, 2.6vw, 2rem)/1.2 var(--font-am); color: var(--ochre); margin: 6px 0 18px; }
.fest { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.fest li { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 4px 12px; padding: 14px 0; border-top: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 18%, transparent); }
.fest .f-name { font: 400 1.25rem/1.2 var(--font-display); }
.fest .f-name .am { color: var(--ochre); font-size: .8em; margin-left: 8px; }
.fest .f-date { font-size: .8125rem; text-align: right; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.fest .f-note { grid-column: 1 / -1; font-size: .875rem; color: color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 82%, transparent); }
.fest .f-approx { color: var(--ochre); font-size: .75rem; }
.seg { display: inline-flex; border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 2px; margin-bottom: 20px; }
.seg button { border: 0; background: transparent; padding: 10px 14px; cursor: pointer; font-size: .875rem; }
.seg button[aria-pressed=true] { background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); }

/* ---------- enquiry form ---------- */
.enq { display: grid; gap: var(--gap); padding-inline: var(--gut); align-items: start; }
@media (min-width: 1000px) { .enq { grid-template-columns: 8fr 4fr; } .enq-sum { position: sticky; top: calc(var(--hdr-h) + 16px); } }
.enq-steps { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 8px; margin-bottom: 28px; }
.enq-steps span { font: 600 .625rem/1.4 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; padding-top: 10px; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); color: var(--muted); }
.enq-steps span.on { border-top: 2px solid var(--red); color: var(--ink); padding-top: 9px; }
.choices { display: grid; gap: 8px; margin-bottom: 18px; }
@media (min-width: 640px) { .choices { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }
.choice { position: relative; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 64px 1fr; gap: 12px; align-items: center; padding: 8px; border: 1px solid var(--rule); background: #fffdf8; cursor: pointer; border-radius: 2px; transition: border-color .3s; }
.choice input { position: absolute; opacity: 0; inset: 0; cursor: pointer; }
.choice img, .choice .ph-missing { width: 64px; height: 48px; object-fit: cover; min-height: 0; font-size: .75rem; }
.choice strong { font-weight: 600; display: block; }
.choice small { color: var(--muted); }
.choice:has(input:checked) { border: 1px solid var(--ink); box-shadow: inset 0 0 0 1px var(--ink); }
.choice:has(input:focus-visible) { outline: 2px solid var(--red); outline-offset: 2px; }
.enq-panel[hidden] { display: none; }
.enq-nav { display: flex; gap: 8px; margin-top: 8px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.enq-sum { background: var(--ink); color: var(--parchment); }
.enq-sum .hi { color: var(--ochre); }
.enq-sum .es-img img, .enq-sum .es-img .ph-missing { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; object-fit: cover; }
.enq-sum .es-in { padding: 20px; }
.enq-sum h2 { font: 400 1.5rem/1.1 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; margin-bottom: 14px; }
.enq-sum dl { margin: 0; font-size: .875rem; }
.enq-sum dl div { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px; padding: 8px 0; border-top: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--parchment) 18%, transparent); }
.enq-sum dt { font: 600 .625rem/1.6 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ochre); }
.enq-sum dd { margin: 0; text-align: right; }
.enq-fest { margin-top: 10px; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px; }

/* ---------- misc ---------- */
.notice { border-left: 3px solid var(--red); padding: 4px 0 4px 16px; }
.cols-2 { display: grid; gap: var(--gap); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .cols-2 { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; } }
.pad { padding-inline: var(--gut); }
.mt-0 { margin-top: 0; } .mb-0 { margin-bottom: 0; }
.list-plain { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.list-rule li { padding: 12px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.art-head .meta { display: flex; gap: 16px; flex-wrap: wrap; font-size: .8125rem; color: var(--muted); }
.journal-list { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; }
.journal-list li a { display: grid; gap: 12px var(--gap); padding: 24px var(--gut); border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); text-decoration: none; grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
.journal-list li:last-child a { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .journal-list li a { grid-template-columns: repeat(12, minmax(0, 1fr)); align-items: center; } .journal-list .jl-k { grid-column: 1 / span 2; } .journal-list .jl-t { grid-column: 3 / span 6; } .journal-list .jl-img { grid-column: 10 / -1; } }
.journal-list .jl-t h2 { font: 400 var(--fs-h3)/1.1 var(--font-display); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color .3s; }
.journal-list a:hover h2 { color: var(--red); }
.journal-list .jl-img { overflow: hidden; }
.journal-list .jl-img img, .journal-list .jl-img .ph-missing { aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; width: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 1.2s var(--ease); min-height: 0; }
.journal-list a:hover .jl-img img { transform: scale(1.05); }
.stairs { position: relative; height: clamp(260px, 42vw, 560px); overflow: hidden; }
.stairs img, .stairs .ph-missing { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.stairs .st-mask { position: absolute; inset: 0; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(6, 1fr); pointer-events: none; }
.stairs .st-mask i { background: var(--parchment); transform-origin: top; transition: transform 1.2s var(--ease-io); }
.stairs .st-mask i:nth-child(1) { height: 0; } .stairs .st-mask i:nth-child(2) { height: 16%; } .stairs .st-mask i:nth-child(3) { height: 32%; } .stairs .st-mask i:nth-child(4) { height: 48%; } .stairs .st-mask i:nth-child(5) { height: 64%; } .stairs .st-mask i:nth-child(6) { height: 80%; }
.js .stairs:not(.is-in) .st-mask i { height: 100%; }

/* ---------- page transitions ---------- */
@view-transition { navigation: auto; }
::view-transition-old(root) { animation: vt-out .45s var(--ease-io) both; }
::view-transition-new(root) { animation: vt-in .7s var(--ease) both; }
@keyframes vt-out { to { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(-24px); } }
@keyframes vt-in { from { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(32px); } }
.curtain { position: fixed; inset: 0; z-index: 90; background: var(--ink); transform: translateY(100%); pointer-events: none; display: grid; place-items: center; color: var(--ochre); }
.curtain .orn { width: 22px; height: 22px; color: var(--ochre); }
.curtain.go { transition: transform .55s var(--ease-io); transform: none; }
.curtain.leave { transform: translateY(-100%); transition: transform .7s var(--ease-io); }

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  *, *::before, *::after { animation-duration: .01ms !important; animation-iteration-count: 1 !important; transition-duration: .01ms !important; transition-delay: 0s !important; scroll-behavior: auto !important; }
  .js .reveal, .js .rv-img img, .giant .ch { opacity: 1 !important; transform: none !important; clip-path: none !important; animation: none !important; }
  ::view-transition-old(root), ::view-transition-new(root) { animation: none; }
}
.row-glyph { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; background: var(--vellum); display: grid; place-items: center; position: relative; color: var(--red); }
.row-glyph span { font: 400 clamp(2rem, 4vw, 3.25rem)/1.1 var(--font-am); text-align: center; padding: 0 12px; }
.row-glyph .orn { position: absolute; top: 14px; left: 14px; }
.row-glyph::after { content: ''; position: absolute; inset: 8px; border: 1px solid color-mix(in srgb, var(--red) 35%, transparent); pointer-events: none; }
.sec-dark .row-glyph { background: var(--coffee); color: var(--ochre); }
.art-side { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
.art-body { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .art-side { grid-column: 1 / span 3; } .art-body { grid-column: 5 / span 7; } }
.art-body > p:first-child { font-size: 1.125rem; }
.map-col, .map-side { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
@media (min-width: 1000px) { .map-col { grid-column: 1 / span 8; } .map-side { grid-column: 9 / -1; } }
/* panels shown where no location-verified photo exists yet */
.hero-media .ph-missing, .cta-media .ph-missing, .nx-media .ph-missing, .acc-p .ph-missing, .card .c-img .ph-missing, .fig-full .ph-missing {
  background: repeating-linear-gradient(45deg, var(--coffee) 0 14px, color-mix(in srgb, var(--coffee) 86%, var(--ochre)) 14px 15px);
  color: var(--ochre); font-size: clamp(2rem, 8vw, 7rem); opacity: 1;
}
.acc-p .ph-missing { font-size: 2rem; }
.card .c-img .ph-missing { font-size: 2.5rem; }
.side-tab { display: none; }
@media (min-width: 1100px) {
  .side-tab { display: block; position: fixed; right: 0; bottom: 12vh; z-index: 35; writing-mode: vertical-rl; background: var(--red); color: #fff; text-decoration: none; padding: 22px 12px; font: 500 .8125rem/1 var(--font-text); letter-spacing: .04em; border-radius: 2px 0 0 2px; transition: padding .4s var(--ease), background-color .3s; }
  .side-tab:hover { padding-right: 18px; background: color-mix(in srgb, var(--red) 82%, var(--ink)); }
}